Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, payments are typically divided according to the work being completed.

There will be a down payment of 10% of the total cost due at contract signing, then there will be a progression of payments at the end of each phase

We don't give estimates through our web site , we suggest to call our office to schedule an appointment with one of trained estimators for free quote. Request an Appointment click here

We accept check and credit card {Visa , Master, Discover & American Express cards accepted only}. Credit cards will be charged an additional processing fee. We do not finance pools, nor can we recommend anyone who does.

This is the time to consider many items. The list below is to provide you with a checklist of items that are sometimes overlooked when a pool renovation is contemplated. Contact our office to discuss further with you any pool upgrades you may be considering.


Here are a few to consider:
• Upgrade Finish
• Tile and Coping: The time to replace tile and coping is before a new pool finish has been applied.
• Cantilever Decks: You can give your pool a new look by cutting back the cantilever deck and installing rock or brick coping around the edge of the pool.
• New Decks: Consider replacing your decks in conjunction with your pool renovation. If decks and the pool are being remodeled together, this gives us the opportunity to set your new pool coping and tile absolutely level since we are not inheriting existing decks that may or may not be level.
• Skimmer: Whether or not decks are being replaced, your skimmer should be evaluated for possible replacement. Certain skimmer designs are problematic.
• Pool Light: A pool light that looks fine in the old pool sometimes no longer looks that good against the new pool finish. We offer upgrade lights with color variation capability. We can also assist in verifying that your light circuitry meets current electric codes. For example, many older installations do not have GFI shock protection.
• Fittings: Unless otherwise directed we will replace only “standard” type fittings. “Screw-in” type fittings are replaced only when specified on the contract.
• Wallsteps: Plastic wallsteps are often in poor condition and should be replaced prior to the pool being refinished.
• Pool/spa Suction: Inlet suction in your pool/spa can be especially hazardous to children. It is important to review how water is returned to the equipment pad and consider “split-suction” in some cases.
• Trim Tile: Trim tile is eliminated when a pool is refinished. If you wish to replace trim tile on your steps and benches, it must be specified on the contract.

A: Rain causes delays on the job. We cannot pour concrete, install tile or coping, or plaster a pool during the rain. In most cases, we will not work during rain days.

A: Our superintendent will make decisions based on the latest weather information we have at the time not to work our crews in the mornings. This will result in losing the entire day. In most cases, your project could be delayed by as many as 3 days for every day of rain. Typically, pool contractors have several jobs that are simultaneously under construction. There is also the dreaded domino effect. This domino effect even can occur when you would least expect it—it’s the phenomenon known as a “sunshine delay”: Even if a single drop does not fall at your house, a downpour in another part of town may delay crews from finishing work on another pool. This in turn holds up their arrival to work on your pool! In addition to rain, other weather conditions can sideline progress (i.e. pool plaster cannot be applied during rain & gusty winds that could blow sand, leaves, or other debris into the smooth, freshly applied material).

Plaster is the finished surface material of the pool that is applied over the gunite.

Depending on what is being done to your pool, we try our best to have the job done in 5-10 days depending on weather and time of year

Depending on the condition of the plaster, we will either chip the existing plaster or, if the finish is solid, we will sandblast and multicoat the existing plaster and apply the new plaster over the bond coat.

For your convenience, we schedule all are replastering projects to occur on consecutive days. The number of days will depend on the amount of work ordered and on weather conditions. However, here is a typical project schedule:

PHASE 1 – We drain your pool.
PHASE 2 – A crew will remove your old plaster, tile, coping, etc.
PHASE 3 – New coping is installed.
PHASE 4 – Your new tile is installed.
PHASE 5 – We plaster your pool and begin refilling it with water.

When plaster is installed, your pool is "substantially complete." Plaster is a smooth waterproof material, which coats the interior surface of your new pool. The Plaster Crew will install the interior fittings such as the main drain and rope anchors.

When they are through, the Plaster Crew will wrap the end of your garden hose with a rag, and leave the hose turned on, resting in the deep end of your pool. Once you have started filling your pool, please follow these important guidelines:

1. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, STOP THE WATER UNTIL IT REACHES HALFWAY UP ON THE TILE! This is critical! If the water is stopped, there is a high risk that the fresh plaster will develop a permanent stain or ring at the water line. Or the remaining exposed area could dry out and develop checks or cracks.
2. Try to protect your new pool from dust, dirt, and leaves while it is filling. BUT DO NOT GO INTO THE POOL TO REMOVE DEBRIS! You may use a FINE MIST SPRAY to hose down dust or dirt into the pool water.
3. Please do not turn on any switches or try to operate the pool pump or light. We will turn on the equipment after the pool is full. Any attempt to operate any of the equipment before the pool is full and before we have properly prepared it could lead to electrical shorts or serious equipment damage.
4. CALL our office when the water reaches halfway up the tile. We will schedule a site visit and perform the Start-up

The length of time required to fill a pool depends on a number of variables such as your local water pressure, the number of hoses being used, and the size of the pool. The average pool takes 24 - 36 hours to fill and it is important to remember that the water should not be turned off until the pool is completely full.

It is important that our crew remove all of the old delaminating plaster prior to resurfacing. A rough surface is expected in most pools since not all areas are delaminating. Once the new plaster or pebble has been installed you are not able to see the previously cratered areas.

We just had the pool re-plaster and when the lights are on at night the surface looks rough and lumpy. It feels smooth to walk on and looks fine in the daytime. If I hadn't noticed the lumps and gouges, I would have believed the pool was perfect.

Throwing a little light across a surface will illuminate every imperfection (try a flashlight across a counter top) that you could never see otherwise. It's true of any pool surface, but less noticeable in say, a commercial pool, where multiple lights soften shadows. As long as it isn't rough to touch or walk on, this won't affect the service life of the surface.

You have two options:
Soften the light by using a smaller wattage bulb or a color cover over the lens (available in blue, yellow, green and red) OR aim the return 'eyeballs' up and have the system run at night during the hours you're likely to be out by the pool. When you ripple the water, imperfections in the pool surface disappear.

Many pool leaks have been traced back to the swimming pool plumbing, particularly, originating at the skimmer or a leaky pump. Just pop the lid off the skimmer. If you notice a crack in the skimmer housing, there is a good chance you might be losing water there. However, we are not leak detection specialists, so it is recommended that you contact a professional leak detection company. This way you can isolate the location of the leak, and then we can help you out!

How to spot for Pool or Spa Leaks:
Do you suspect your pool or spa is leaking? Here are several reliable ways to check.
• The Greasy Guide ‑ Use a grease pencil to mark the water level of the pool at the skimmer. Check the mark 24 hours later. Your pool should lose no more than 1/4 inch per day. Otherwise, a leak is indicated.
• The Bucket Test ‑ Place a bucket filled with pool water on a pool step (weight it with a rock or brick). Mark the water level on both the inside and the outside of the bucket. The starting point levels should be about the same. Check the mark 24 hours later. If there's a greater drop in the line on the outside of the bucket, a leak in the pool is indicated.

Do you suspect your pool or spa is leaking? Here are several reliable ways to check.
• Algae or other persistent water quality problems indicating imbalances in the chemistry can occur when a leak prevents the water level from staying constant;
• Loose tiles or cracks in the pool deck;
• Cracks and gaps in the bond beam; or
• Water‑saturated soils in the area around the pool, pool pumps or plumbing.

When in doubt Contact LEAK COMPANY to further assist you in determining if you pool has a leak.

Determining the Location of the Leak:
If you determine that your pool is losing water, turn off the filtration system and note where the water stops dropping.

• If the water stops at the skimmer, the leak is probably in the filtration system. The lines may crack at vulnerable elbows and fittings that are under stress from shifting soils.
• If the water stops at the light, the leak is probably there.
• If the water drops below the light, then there may be a leak in the drain at the bottom the pool.

If you suspect you have a leak in the filtration system these clues may help you pinpoint the location:
• If you see bubbles in the return water when the pool's pump is running, it's likely there's a leak in the suction side of the filtration system.
• If the pool is losing more water while running the pump, then water is being lost on the return side of the system.

You can save money by testing your own pool for a water loss.
The Bucket Test:
Please note: We are not leak detectors but we provide this information to help pool owners. When a leak detection company finds the leak we can repair leaks.

A simple test will confirm a leak in a pool or spa: **DO NOT LET CHILDREN PLAY WITH ANY BUCKET**

1. Bring the pool water to its normal level.
2. Fill an empty bucket with pool water to about one inch from the top of bucket (by filling the bucket close to the top you are ensuring that air movement over the surface of the bucket will similar to that of the pool).
3. Place the bucket on the first or second step of the pool. To keep it from floating away it may be necessary to place a few bricks or rocks into the bucket (by placing the bucket in the pool water you are ensuring that the water temperature of each will be similar).
4. Mark the water level inside the bucket.
5. Mark the water level of the pool on the outside of the bucket, on the pool wall, or skimmer face plate.
6. Operate the pool for 24 hours as it had been operated when a leak was first suspected.
7. After 24 hours, compare the two levels. If the pool water (outside mark) goes down more than the inside water level, there is probably a leak.

• Check your circuit breaker and reset if necessary.
• Check your G.F.C.I. (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) and reset if necessary.
• If your pool light is tied into a remote system, test your batteries. Are the remote frequencies set properly?

Light bulb – remove the screw on the top of the chrome ring around the light. There will be enough cord wrapped around the light unit to allow you to bring the whole light unit up onto the deck. disassemble the light (tabs & screws or wire clamp assembly) and change the light bulb. We recommend changing the light gasket at the same time to ensure a tight seal. Reassemble the light and replace into the niche in the wall and reinstall the screw.

Complete light – Be sure to purchase a light with the correct voltage (120v or 12v). Make sure the light has enough cord to reach your junction box with extra to allow the unit to be put on the deck for future bulb changes. Always make sure the electricity is turned off. Cut the cord directly behind the light fixture. Tie the end of the new cord to the cut end of the old cord and use duct tape to ensure the cord stays together. Working from the junction box, pull the old cord out. This will pull the new cord through the brass conduit leading from the light unit to the junction box. Disconnect the two cords, connect the new cord to the power source and install the new light unit into the niche in the wall

• Each swimming pool system has different water pressure tolerances. Please refer to your original owner's equipment manual and/or startup instructions to identify the range of proper pressure for your swimming pool.
• If you suspect that the pressure is too high, check and clean out all debris from baskets. In addition, check to see if all your equipment valves are set properly and backwash your filter for several minutes.
• If you suspect that the pressure is too high, confirm that the pressure gauge reads zero when the equipment is off. If it does not fall back down to zero, you will need to replace the gauge.
• If you suspect that the pressure is too low, check and clean out all debris from baskets. In addition, check to see if all your equipment valves are set properly.
• If you suspect that the pressure is too low, check to see if the gauge reads zero when the equipment is off. If it does not fall back down to zero, you will need to replace the gauge.

• The standard push/pull backwash valve is a plunger type of valve commonly found in sand and DE filter systems. Inside the valve is a plunger with two o-rings. When the valve is put into the backwash position, the flow of water through the filter is reversed. After putting the valve into the backwash position, the water is pumped out through the backwash rather then being returned to the swimming pool. Typically, a hose is attached to the valve so the operator can direct the water flow away from the swimming pool. Normally, there are four "O" rings in this type of valve. If these rings become damaged, worn or dried out, two things will occur. Unfiltered water may return to the swimming pool and/or the swimming pool will begin to lose water.
• Cap "O" Ring (1) seals the removable cap to the valve body. This "O" ring requires light lubrication and should be cleaned and lubricated each time the cap is removed.
• Shaft "O" Ring (1) is inside the cap and provides a seal where the plunger shaft goes through the cap. This "O" ring requires light lubrication. Apply a small amount of lubricant to the shaft immediately above and below the cap and then work the shaft up and down. This should be done once per month or when the shaft becomes difficult to move.
• Piston "O" Rings (2) are on the pistons or discs of the plunger. These rings require heavier lubrication. TURN OFF YOUR FILTER PUMP. Remove the cap and pull the plunger all the way out. Check the two "O" rings to make sure they are not damaged. They should fit snugly on the pistons with no kinks or twists. Apply a pencil-sized bead of lubricant around each "O" ring and insert back into the plunger. Re-install the cap. This should be done once per month (or as necessary) when the shaft becomes difficult to move.

• Most manufacturers recommend that the following procedure be done on an annual basis. Disassemble the filter, clean with garden hose, inspect the grids for tear and holes and re-coat new D.E.
• This type of filter utilizes D.E. powder to strain debris from the water (as recommended by the manufacturer). D.E. is the fossilized remains of plankton (diatoms) that have been ground into a fine powder. The cloth-covered grids within the filter must be pre-coated with D.E. powder for the proper filter operation.
• Pre-coat the filter grids by mixing a combination of D.E. and water. The slurry solution should have the consistency of watered down pancake batter. Slowly pour this slurry into the skimmer while the pump is running. Once the grids are coated, the debris will be removed from the swimming pool water. The water flows through the grids and flows out the end opening into the manifold and returned to the swimming pool.
• Backwashing a D.E. filter is similar to the procedure for the sand filter. By reversing the flow of water, the debris and dirty D.E. are loosened from the grid. This water is washed out of the filter and into the backwash line. After this is completed, the D.E. re-coating of the grids can proceed.
D.E. powder is non-biodegradable and a separation tank may be installed on your backwash line to capture all of the flushed powder particles

If your pool water is not balanced properly, it can lead to skin and eye irritation as well as harm the equipment and surface of the pool

Water mold is a whitish, mucous-like substance that looks like shredded tissue paper when floating in the water. It is not harmful to humans, but is unsightly and can clog equipment. It also depletes oxidizer levels, which can other undesirable conditions to occur. Water mold usually begins growing in the lines, and by the time it becomes visible, the growth is often quite heavy.

If the pool uses chlorine or bromine, the first step is to brush the sides and bottom thoroughly. If you think you might have missed a few maintenance algicide applications, add an initial dose of your algicide (algae and fungal growths usually indicate inconsistent algicide applications). Next, shock with three times the normal dose of Aqua Chlor or Aqua Burn. Allow the filter to circulate overnight. Repeat as necessary. When the procedure is complete, chemically clean the filter.

The reason for the absence of a chlorine reading is that your chlorine is tied-up. It is combined with amine groups causing your chlorine to be inactive. This is commonly called chlorine demand. What you need to do is shock or superchlorinate your pool. Shocking your pool will cause the chlorine to free up. Double and triple levels of super-chlorination may be depleted within hours of application. Often the pool water will be sparkling and attractive while this problem is taking place. In some cases, the chlorine stabilizer disappears and cannot be measured.

There are many causes for chlorine demand and in most cases - there is no one cause for a particular chlorine demand but several combined: algae, fertilizer contamination, excessive chloramine accumulation, rain, pollution, excessive cover debris rinsed or dumped in pool, source water (sometimes municipal water supplies contain chloramines), organic and other contaminates in source water (ponds, lakes, well water, vandalism, etc.

We recommend that if you have had a continuous problem with chlorine demands that you shock your pool weekly.

You need to maintain enough chlorine in the pool to control the amount of bacteria. It is recommend you keep a free available chlorine residual between 1ppm - 3ppm.

You need to shock your pool at least every 2 weeks in the summer. Depending on the usage and weather.

Wait until the chlorine level drops below 3ppm. Usually if you shock in the evening, the chlorine level will drop to 3 ppm

Raises the pH in pool water to guard against skin and eye irritation, corrosion of metal fixtures.

Lowers the pH in pool water to prevent scaling, cloudy water and reduced effectiveness of chlorine. It is safer to store and use.

Raises Total Alkalinity to control pH bounce, staining of surfaces and corrosion of pool equipment.

The term "acid rain" refers to any precipitation that has a pH of 5.5 or lower and can be in form of rain, sleet, snow, or fog. It is estimated that half of the acid rain formation is caused by man-made factors, such as vehicle and industry emissions. The other half is attributed to natural causes, such as forest fires and lightening. These emissions form sulfuric acid and nitric acid when exposed to moisture and sunlight and fall as acid rain.

Natural rain has a pH of 6.0, and acid rain has a pH of 5.5 or lower. As rain becomes more acidic, the total alkalinity of your pool decreases. Regular testing and adjusting of total alkalinity and pH will help protect against acid rain.

Chlorine is a very aggressive and efficient disinfectant that kills bacteria. It is very important in maintaining pool water for swimmers safety and health. Over 90% of all pools (commercial and residential) use some form of chlorinating products as a sanitizer. Bacteria and algae enter the pool every day from sources ranging from bathers to the weather. So every day you have to fight bacteria and algae with sanitizers and algicides.

Parts per million is a unit of measure used in measuring chemical application. It indicates that amount, by weight, of a chemical in relation to one million parts, by weight, of water.

Pool water has chemical characteristics that must be measured regularly. Pool owners need to check two of these characteristics on a regular basis. pH. and Sanitizer. When these two factors are maintained within specified ranges, your pool water is probably not going to experience problems. By testing your pool water on regular basis, it will help you understand how bather load, weather conditions and chemical applications affect the water. We recommend you have your pool water professionally tested a minimum of twice yearly as they perform a more comprehensive set of tests. This will ensure that all the important parameters are in balance. Pools that are maintained in the proper test ranges will be protected from uncontrolled bacteria growth, be comfortable to the eyes and skin of swimmers, be less aggressive to pool surfaces and equipment, protected from growth of algae and most important be clear, sparkling and inviting to swimmers.

Chlorine stabilizer is an organic compound that protects chlorinating products from the sun. It is also known as Cyanuric Acid and is sometimes referred to as "conditioner." Pool water that is stabilized offers pool owners a definite advantage over unstabilized pools. For instance, every 35 minutes a pool is exposed to the sun, the water will lose half of the HOCI present (which is the killing power form of chlorine.)

Pool owners using unstabilized chlorine products to sanitize their pool can extend the life expectancy and efficiency of their free available chlorine residual by adding Aqua Clear Chlorine Stabilizer to outdoor pools. Indoor pools are usually not exposed to UV rays of the sun and, consequently, do not require the use of stabilizer. Initially, you should add enough Chlorine Stabilizer to achieve 40 ppm. When Cyanuric Acid levels drop below 30 pppm, stabilizer should be added. However, a pool being maintained on stabilized chlorinating products will constantly have a replenishing source of stabilizer being fed to the pool as the stabilized product is dissolved into the water.

Rather than continuously adding stabilizer, most pool owners prefer the convenience of a sanitizer that contains both a chlorinating product and a stabilizer. We recommend the use of Aqua Clear Aqua Tabs or Aqua Clear Rapid Chlor-56. Aqua Tabs strong chlorine formula dissolves slowly and completely. Rapid Chlor-56 is not as strong and dissolves faster. Because it dissolves so fast, when it's used as a primary sanitizer, it is usually and fed into a pool. More often, dichloro is used to provide a quick stabilized chlorine residual to boost a pool with heavy bather load or to oxidize waste or kill algae.

To add 40 ppm of Aqua Clear Chlorine Stabilizer, add 1 pound of Chlorine Stabilizer for every 3,000 gallons of pool water, for 30 ppm add 1 pound per 4,000 gallons. Slowly add the appropriate amount of Chlorine Stabilizer granules through the skimmer with the pump running. Allow the pump and filter to run at least 24 hours. DO NOT BACKWASH the filter for 48 hours after product application. Stabilizer dissolves very slowly (which is why the skimmer application method is preferred) and if the filter is backwashed too soon after application, the Chlorine Stabilizer will be washed out of the filter before it has a chance to dissolve. We recommend a minimum level of 30 - 40 ppm. 30 - 200 ppm is an acceptable range. The maximum level of CYA in commercial pools is a established by local health departments.

A common myth in the pool industry claims that too much Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid, CYA) in pool water "locks-up" the free available chlorine residual. Chemically, this is not accurate. The free available chlorine residual kills microorganisms with CYA levels up to 500 ppm. Minimum CYA level is 30 - 40 ppm, acceptable is 30 - 200 ppm for residential pools.

The only way to lower Cyanuric acid level is to partially drain your pool, then refill it with fresh water. Please contact your nearest pool dealer before attempting to drain any pool. If this procedure is not done properly, you could damage your pool.

Once you have your pool balanced, add the correct dosage of winter shock and winter algaecide. To add additional protection to your pool's structure, finish by adding a chelating agent, such as AquaClear IronOut Formula II to keep minerals from dropping out and onto the pool's surface in cold temperatures. There are also a variety of winter products and accessories.

The Virginia Graeme Baker Pool & Spa Safety Act (P&SS Act) was enacted by Congress and signed by President Bush on December 19, 2007. Designed to prevent the tragic and hidden hazard of drain entrapments and eviscerations in pools and spas, the law became effective on December 19, 2008.

Under the law, all public pools and spas must have ANSI/ASME A112.19.8 performance standard, or the successor standard ANSI/APSP-16 2011 compliant drain covers installed and a second anti-entrapment system installed, when there is a single main drain other than an unblockable drain.

Learn more about the young girl who inspired the Virginia Graeme Baker Pool and Spa Safety Act.

The Virginia Graeme Baker Pool & Spa Safety Act (P&SS Act) takes its name from Virginia Graeme Baker, a young girl who drowned after she was trapped under water by the powerful suction from a hot tub drain.

A twin and the youngest of five, 7-year-old Graeme, as her family called her, was the daughter of Nancy and James Baker IV, the son of former Secretary of State James Baker III. A member of her community swim and diving team, Graeme was able to swim without assistance since she was 3 years old.

In June 2002, Graeme became stuck to a hot tub drain and was unable to pull herself free. Efforts by her mother to pull Graeme from the drain proved unsuccessful. Two men who eventually freed Graeme from the spa pulled so hard that the drain cover broke from the force. Graeme died from drowning, but the real cause of her death was suction entrapment due to a faulty drain cover.

After her tragic death, her mother, Nancy Baker, worked tirelessly to advocate for pool and spa safety. Mrs. Baker, her family and Safe Kids Worldwide actively lobbied Congress to win support for a law to require anti-entrapment drain covers and other safety devices, as needed. The statute, which was sponsored by U.S. Rep. Debbie Wasserman Schultz of Florida, was signed into law by the President in December 2007.